Still Air vs Forced Air Incubator
Temperature layering, hatch rates and the settings that differ between the two. Which is worth it for a first hatch.
The short version
A forced air incubator with a fan holds a far more even temperature and is more forgiving of a first attempt, which is why it generally produces better hatch rates. A still air incubator is cheaper and works, but heat stratifies inside it, so the temperature is measured at the top of the egg rather than in the air, and the target is higher: commonly around 101 to 102 degrees Fahrenheit at egg top level against about 99.5 in a forced air machine. Getting that distinction wrong is the most common reason a first still air hatch fails.
Little Giant Circulated Air Incubator with Turner
About $150
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| Little Giant Digital Still Air Incubator | Little Giant Circulated Air Incubator with Turner | |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature evenness | Layers, warmer at the top | Even throughout |
| Target temperature | About 101 to 102 F at egg top | About 99.5 F |
| Automatic turning | Usually not included | Usually included |
| Forgiving of user error | Less | More |
| Cost | Lower | Higher |
| Suits a first hatch | Workable with care | Better |
Choose the Little Giant Digital Still Air Incubator if…
A still air machine can hatch well in experienced hands and costs half as much. The critical points are measuring temperature at the top of the eggs rather than in the middle of the air space, running the higher target, and turning the eggs by hand at least three and ideally five times a day, an odd number so they do not sit the same way overnight. Keep it out of draughts and away from windows, since ambient swings move the internal temperature.
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Choose the Little Giant Circulated Air Incubator with Turner if…
A forced air machine with a turner is the better first incubator. The fan evens the temperature so a thermometer anywhere gives a usable reading, and automatic turning removes the most commonly missed step. Still calibrate: run it empty for a day or two before setting eggs, and check it against a separate thermometer, because built in displays can be out by enough to matter. Stop turning and raise humidity for the last three days, which is the lockdown period.
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Related
Comparison based on published manufacturer specifications and the general consensus of owner reports. We have not tested these products side by side. Confirm current specifications and prices before buying. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases, at no extra cost to you.
Reviewed in detail
If you have narrowed the decision to one product, we go through it in detail here: Brinsea Ovation 56 EX review and Nurture Right 360 incubator review.
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Frequently Asked Questions
What humidity should I run?
A common approach is around forty to fifty per cent relative humidity for the first eighteen days, then sixty five per cent or higher for the final three, though many experienced hatchers instead track weight loss across incubation and adjust humidity to hit a target loss of roughly twelve per cent by day eighteen. Ambient conditions vary enormously, so the weight method is more reliable than any fixed number.
Why did my eggs not hatch?
The usual causes are temperature error, inadequate turning, humidity too high or too low, poor egg storage or handling before setting, infertile eggs, and opening the incubator during lockdown. Candling at day seven and again at fourteen tells you whether the eggs were fertile and developing, which narrows the problem substantially. Keep a written log of temperature and humidity so the next attempt has something to work from.
Should I help a chick out of the shell?
Usually not. A chick that has pipped and then rested for many hours is often doing exactly what it should while it absorbs the yolk and the blood vessels in the membrane recede. Assisting early causes bleeding and often kills the chick. Chicks that genuinely cannot get out are frequently the ones with an underlying problem. If you are worried, ask an experienced hatcher or a vet before intervening.
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